Cattle

The Legacy of Our Aberdeen Angus Herd

Our herd of Aberdeen Angus has been part of the estancia since the Begg family first settled here, although to begin with the cattle was bred primarily for personal consumption on the farm. Today the herd, much larger in size, is part of a commercial operation, every year developing the bloodstock further to produce an animal which calves easily and thrives on the poorer winter grass is a priority.

This year has been no exception and has been particularly exciting with the introduction of bloodlines which go directly back to Scotland and some of the original Angus cattle. Taking inspiration from our roots, we have focused these last few years in reintroducing traditional techniques into our daily life, by honoring the traditions that are historical to Estancia’s in Argentina.   

In the coming days and weeks we will begin to prepare for the annual cattle sales. The entire herd is rounded up from the adjacent hills and valleys and then the task of separating the animals begins. All cattle must be vaccinated and thoroughly checked before sale. Despite the blinding dust that begins to surround the corrals, the gauchos have exceptional skills in sorting the herd. 

Once the work is done the gauchos, guests, guides and neighbors sit down and enjoy a delicious asado on a long trestle table, ready for another day! 

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A Day in the Life: Herding Cattle at Los Potreros

The world has been hugely affected by the ongoing pandemic of 2020 and it is something I am sure many of us will forget; from the shortage of toilet paper to the extensive period of social distancing, disruption has been widely felt and Argentina is no exception. Although life on a working cattle estancia continues one of our guides Sammie has decided to share with us an insight into quarantine at Estancia Los Potreros.

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"Que estamos separando? What are we separating?" "Las lindas de las feas. The beautiful from the ugly."

A year ago, if you'd told me I'd spend my morning on foot in a corral, sorting cows into "good looking" and "ugly," I'd have laughed you off. But that's exactly where I found myself as a guide at Estancia Los Potreros.

Starting Before Sunrise

Life on a working cattle ranch doesn't pause for much, and this week it was time to pregnancy test our Aberdeen Angus herd. Six of us saddled up while the sky was still glowing tangerine and rode out into the campo to find the cattle and bring them down to the cattle station.

Riding alongside my compañero Pachi, we headed across the sierras - hills that felt every bit as steep as Ben Nevis. "Go over that hill, and push any cows you find over the next one," he instructed, unhelpfully. Wanting to prove myself, I cantered up and over, and found cattle scattered across rock and crag. My horse, Muchacho, was far more sure-footed than I was and picked his way through the terrain without hesitation.

Learning the Gaucho Way

Months in, I still can't whistle like the gauchos do, but I've picked up their calls and a fair bit of Spanish vocabulary that certainly wasn't part of my schooling. Pachi and I eventually reconvened, and three lines of cattle converging from different directions became one herd, pushed together toward the station.

A Day's Work on the Estancia

Once the cows were gathered, everyone took a station. Georgie worked her horse in the corral, pushing small groups through; Pachi guided them into the chute; I shut the gate behind each one; our headman Dani held the head steady; the vet checked how far along each cow was with her calf. We only paused for an asado lunch before starting again.

Work continued after the vet left, this time separating male and female calves on foot - closer to a game of dodgeball with live cows than anything else, especially once I realised the gauchos had rebenques and we didn't. By the end, we'd picked out the 70 best female calves, the future mothers of the herd, chosen for their build, their longer legs suited to the rocky ground, and a "nice face" I still can't quite define.

Riding Home

We rode back as the sun dropped, exhausted, filthy, and thoroughly content. Days like this are what estancia life is really about - hard work, a bit of chaos, and a growing sense of belonging to this place and its rhythms. I'm still not sure if I'll leave here more fluent in Spanish or in cow, but either way, I wouldn't trade the lesson.

A gaucho looking at over the sierras chicas.